Relishes and Pickles

October – Parmesan Rinds
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October – Parmesan Rinds

One of my favorite cheeses is Parmesan, especially the nutty and wonderful Parmigiano-Reggiano, known as the “King of Cheeses”. I consider it a kitchen essential. It’s named after the areas where it is produced in Italy, they comprise the provinces of Parma, Reggio, Emilia, part of Bologna, Modena, and Mantova. Under Italian law only cheese produced in those areas are allowed to be labelled “Parmigiano-Reggiano”. You can see the name stamped on the rind. Outside the EU the name “Parmesan” can legally be used for cheeses similar to Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Keep a hunk of it in your fridge or freezer. It lasts forever and even a small grating adds a lot of flavor to a dish. I use it with scrambled eggs and roast vegetables, as well as pasta and pizza. Parmigiano-Reggiano has a lot of the quality umami, or savory.

It’s not an inexpensive cheese, but a little goes a long way. And you end up with these wonderful leftovers at the end…Parmesan rinds. Yes, don’t throw them away. Keep a bag in your freezer and save them. You might ask for what? Here are some ideas.

  • Drop a rind into a pot of beans, especially white beans, while they cook. Remove before serving.
  • A traditional use is in an Italian minestrone soup. Again drop in a rind to cook with your pasta and beans, then add fresh vegetables. The rind adds invaluable flavor. When you are ready to serve the soup, remove the rind and add a grating of fresh Parmesan.
  • Make Parmesan stock. It tastes a lot like chicken (have you heard that before?) and packs a punch of umami. Use it for a risotto.
  • Make Parmesan olive oil. Have you seen those tiny bottles of Parmesan oil in the better delis? They are outrageously expensive! And, you can make your own with your own leftover rinds. Simply add them to a jar, cover with good olive oil (make sure they are entirely covered) and store in a cool dark place. It will take several months for the flavors to blend. If you store it in the fridge, warm it up before use.

    Parmesan Olive Oil

    Parmesan Olive Oil

Use the oil as a finishing oil for a pasta dish, soup, or roast vegetables. Or maybe instead of your regular oil in a salad? I think you will find the uses are endless.

Pasta with Parmesan Olive Oil

Pasta with Parmesan Olive Oil

Pasta with Cauliflower. Artichoke Hearts and Parmesan

Pasta with Cauliflower. Artichoke Hearts and Parmesan

So, buy good quality Parmesan (Parmigiano-Reggiano if possible) and don’t throw away the rinds!

This oil is part of my contribution to Fiesta Friday, I can only imagine what a boost of flavor it will add to many of the dishes. It’s Fiesta Friday #91. Come join the fun at a virtual blogging party hosted by Angie of The Novice Gardener. The co-hosts this week are Juju @ cookingwithauntjuju and Indira @ I’ll Cook, You Wash.

September in the Kitchen – Carrot Habanero Sauce
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September in the Kitchen – Carrot Habanero Sauce

‘Tis the season for peppers…sweet peppers, hot peppers, small peppers, large ones, and all colors…green, red, yellow, purple and orange.

Sweet peppers

Sweet peppers

But the season is short, much too short here in Northern California. This bright orange hot sauce using habaneros will bring back the taste (and heat) of summer on a dull winter day. What’s the best part? You can save a bit of summer in a jar and it is easy to make even for a beginner.

Habaneros

Habaneros

Use the sauce on grilled cheese sandwiches, tacos, or scrambled eggs…anywhere you need a touch of spicy heat. The carrots add sweetness and a lovely orange color. Plus it’s a wonderful hostess or Christmas gift.

I recommend using small (4-ounce) jars. This sauce is potent and a little goes a long way. If you prefer less heat, use more Serrano chilies or jalapeños and less habaneros. The habaneros are one of the hottest of the chilies.

Use a hot water canner if you have one, or a large pot if you don’t. Please refer to a good book on canning for more detailed instructions if you are not familiar with the basic techniques.

Carrot Habanero Sauce

  • 1 1/2 pounds of carrots (orange), peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds. A food processor will make short work of this.

    Carrots

    Carrots

  • 1 large white onion
  • 1 1/2 cups water
  • 2 tablespoons of lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons of kosher salt
  • 3 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger
  • 4 habanero peppers, seeded and chopped
  • 2 jalapeño peppers (red if you can find them), seeded and chopped
  • 5 cups white vinegar
  • Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
  1. Combine the carrots, onion, water, lemon juice, salt, garlic and ginger in a medium non-reactive pot over medium high heat. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer until the carrots are very soft. This could take 30 minutes. If the mixture seems dry, add a tablespoon or two of water.
  2. Once the carrots are soft, add the peppers and simmer for another 10 minutes. Add the vinegar, lime juice and zest.
  3. Either blend the mixture with an immersion blender or transfer in batches to a standing blender or food processor. (I prefer the smoother texture you get with a blender, you might like more texture.) Blend until smooth.
  4. Optional (I don’t do this as I prefer the color and texture of the unstrained sauce. Your yield will also be higher): Strain the sauce through a strainer, using a rubber spatula to press the liquid through. Discard any chunky bits.
  5. Pour into a large container and refrigerate overnight to let the flavors blend.
  6. The following day, blend the sauce again. Return it to the pot and bring it to a simmer, cook for about 25-30 minutes until it is thick and glossy.
  7. Ladle the sauce into hot jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Check for air bubbles, wipe the rim, and seal. Process for 10 minutes.

This recipe makes approximately 6 pints of sauce. I use 4 oz. jars, so you will have plenty for both your own use and gift giving.

Carrot Habanero Sauce

Carrot Habanero Sauce

Recipe adapted from Tart and Sweet by Kelly Geary and Jessie Knadler.

And what is my personal favorite way to use it? Grilled cheese with a sharp Canadian white cheddar. I was recently in Seattle where grilled cheese is big business, here you see a food truck parked in from of Tesla. “Gourmet Grilled Cheese”… I think this could hang in there with their offerings.

Grilled Cheese is Big Business

Grilled Cheese is Big Business

Grilled cheese on Focaccia with Carrot Habanero

Grilled cheese on Focaccia with Carrot Habanero

September in the Kitchen – Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Potato Hobo Packs and Pickled Chilis
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September in the Kitchen – Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Potato Hobo Packs and Pickled Chilis

If you are a camper you have probably heard of “hobo packs”. It’s a classic campfire trick of wrapping ingredients in foil and cooking them directly in the coals. In our case we have a gas grill, so the packs were placed directly on the grill. The potatoes were par-cooked for a few minutes, sprinkled with salt, drizzled with sesame oil and finally wrapped with aluminum foil to place on the grate for 15 to 20 minutes until tender.

A few comments on to the subject of steaks on the BBQ: My personal preference is for rib eye (preferably from the center cut) or New York cuts. They are the perfect combination of tenderness and flavor. Look for ones that are uniform and well marbled. Good steaks require little more than salt, but be sure you bring them to room temperature before cooking. For a bit of extra umami I used sea salt flavored with powdered sea weed.

One steak will easily feed two adults, maybe three, if you cut it into slices (once rested so the juices settle). My mother told a favorite story about my English grandmother’s first visit to a steak restaurant in the U.S. Nanny was unfamiliar with the typically generous portions served. When they placed her steak in front of her she protested that she didn’t want to carve for everyone! I won’t get on a soap box here (at least not too much) but I think portions have gotten out of hand in many restaurants. We would all be better off with vegetables taking the center stage and meat the supporting role.

Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Hobo Potatoes and Pickled Chiles

Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Hobo Potatoes and Pickled Chiles

Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Hobo Potatoes and Pickled Chiles

  • For the steaks:
    • 1 – 2 rib eye steaks, 1 to 1 1/2 inch thick
    • Sea salt with dried seaweed (or 1 tablespoon crushed bonito flakes and 1 tablespoon kosher salt). Don’t over worry if you don’t have these on hand. You could also use a minced anchovy or simply leave it out.
    • olive oil
  • For the potatoes
    • 1 pound of scrubbed new potatoes or larger ones cut in chunks
    • kosher salt
    • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
    • optional: 4 shiso leaves cut into chiffanade (or cilantro)
  • For the pickled chiles
    • Juice of 2 limes
    • 2 serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded and minced (or jalapeños for more heat)
    • 1 tablespoon minced red onion
  • For garnish
    • cubed avocado
  1. First season both sides of the steaks with sea salt flavored with sea weed (or the crushed bonito flakes or anchovy). Let them come to room temperature, about 2 hours. Drizzle both sides with olive oil.
  2. Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water (you can start most things that are in the ground, such as potatoes or carrots, in cold water). Add about a tablespoon of kosher salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn down the temperature to medium. cook until they are firm tender, 10-15 minutes depending on size. Drain.
  3. Cut the potatoes into 1 inch pieces if large. Arrange them in the center of a large rectangle of heavy duty aluminum foil, drizzle with sesame oil. Pull the ends of the foil together and fold over to seal. Crimp the sides to make a package with the potatoes inside.
  4. Make the pickled chiles by combining the lime juice, chiles, and red onion in a small bowl. Mix to combine and add salt to taste. Use them immediately for the most heat and tartness, or cover and refrigerate for a few days. They will become milder with time.
  5. Prepare your charcoal grill or preheat the gas one to 450-500 degrees F. When the fire is ready add the steaks and grill, turning once, for 2 to 3 minutes a side. Cover the grill and continue to cook (turning once) until done to your liking. The time will depend the thickness of the steak. This could take 5 to 15 minutes. The internal temperature for medium rare is 120 degrees F. Transfer the steaks to a cutting board and let rest.
  6. Put the potatoes on the grill or rest them in the coals. Cook until tender and beginning to brown, about 15-20 minutes.
  7. Transfer the potatoes to a large platter and sprinkle with cilantro or shiso or basil. Season with sea salt. Slice the steak into thick slices and arrange on the potatoes. Spoon some of the pickled chiles on top, reserving additional chiles to be added to taste.
  8. Garnish with avocado and more cilantro (or shiso).
  9. Serve.
    Grilled Rib Eye Steaks the Hobo Potato Packs and Pickled Chilies

    Grilled Rib Eye Steaks the Hobo Potato Packs and Pickled Chilies

    This recipe is adapted from one that was published in the San Francisco Chronicle Food section this past July.

    Pour yourself a glass of rose to sip while your meal cooks on the grill. You only need a simple salad to complete things. The “meat and potato” fans in your household will be pleased.

    I’m taking this to share on Fiesta Friday #84 sponsored by Angie from the blog The Novice Gardener co-hosted by Effie at Food Daydreaming and Steffie at Ginger and Bread. It’s my first post on the party site for several weeks (summer vacation is history, here we are September!). Come join the fun and fantasy taste some really amazing dishes.

    Fiesta Friday

    Fiesta Friday

June in the Kitchen – Daughter of Seedy Mix
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June in the Kitchen – Daughter of Seedy Mix

My Seedy Mix has turned out to be a popular condiment in my household. It adds crunch, a dose of flavor, and a boost of protein to all kinds of salads and vegetables. Use it as a finishing garnish (it’s more interesting than parsley). The original Seedy Mix was posted last April and has been undergoing some alterations over the past few months. Here is the updated and improved recipe:

Daughter of Seedy Mix

  • 1/3 cup sunflower seeds
  • 1/3 cup sesame seeds
  • 1/3 cup of hulled pumpkin seeds
  • 2 tablespoons poppy seeds
  • 2 teaspoons nigella seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon of black mustard seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon of Urfu Biber pepper
  • 2 teaspoons dried onion flakes
  •  2 teaspoons dried garlic flakes
  • 2 teaspoons sea salt
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
  2. Put the sunflower and sesame seeds in a shallow oven proof plate like a metal pie plate. Toast in the oven until golden, shaking the plate a few times. This will take about 8-10 minutes. Pour into a medium bowl to cool.
  3. Heat a small dry frying pan on medium heat, add the poppy seeds and toast for 5 minutes. Remove them to the bowl with the sunflower and sesame seeds.
  4. Add the nigella seeds to the skillet and toast for 2 minutes. Remove to the bowl with the other seeds.
  5. Add the cumin and mustard seeds to the skillet and toast for another 1 to 2 minutes until golden. You might want to cover the skillet with a splatter screen as the mustard seeds will jump around. Add to the bowl with the rest.
  6. Add the onion, garlic, Urfu Biber, and salt to the bowl. Stir to mix. Cool completely.
  7. Once cool, transfer to a jar with a tight lid.
Seedy Mix II

Seedy Mix II

Sprinkle the seeds over vegetables or scrambled eggs, salad, roast chicken, or anything needing an extra embellishment. I couldn’t resist them as a quick snack while I was preparing dinner.

April in the Kitchen – Seedy Seasoning Mix
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April in the Kitchen – Seedy Seasoning Mix

Are you looking for a way to add texture and interest to simply cooked vegetables, eggs, soup, or a roast chicken? Look no further than this mix of seeds which originated at the Ox restaurant in Portland, OR. It adds instant panache. I found this recipe, and adapted it slightly, in Sunset Magazine’s March edition.

Zucchini

Seedy Seasoning with Zucchini

It’s a mix of seeds often seen on an “everything” bagel. The original version used caraway seeds. I am not a big fan of caraway seeds and substituted cumin; I like the hint of spice they add. Feel free to reverse my substitution. Store this in a jar near your stove (it won’t last long), I’m adding it to everything! I’m even planning to take it on vacation next week in Key West. We’ve rented a house near the beach with other family members. I’m sure there will be some cooking involved and think they will be equally enthusiastic.

For vegetarians and vegans, the mix will add some extra protein as well as crunch and flavor.

I used the mix with a simple saute of fresh zucchini coins. 5 small zucchini were cut into 1/4 inch thick slices, salted in a strainer with a tablespoon of kosher salt for 20 minutes, then dried with paper towels and sautéed in 2 tablespoons of olive oil until crisply tender.

Sauteed Zucchini with Seedy Seasoning

Sauteed Zucchini with Seedy Seasoning

Seedy Seasoning

  • 1/4 cup sunflower seeds
  • 1/4 cup sesame seeds
  • 3 tablespoons poppy seeds
  • 2 teaspoons nigella seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 2 teaspoons dried onion flakes
  •  2 teaspoons dried garlic flakes
  • 2 teaspoons sea salt
  1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.
  2. Put the sunflower and sesame in a shallow oven proof plate like a metal pie plate. Toast in the oven until golden, shaking the plate a few times. This will take about 8-10 minutes. Pour into a bowl to cool.
  3. Heat a small dry frying pan on medium heat, add the poppy seeds and toast for 5 minutes. Remove them to the bowl with the sunflower and sesame seeds.
  4. Add the nigella seeds to the skillet and toast for 2 minutes. Remove to the bowl with the other seeds.
  5. Add the cumin seeds to the skillet and toast for another 1 to 2 minutes until golden. Add to the bowl with the rest.
  6. Add the onion, garlic, and salt to the bowl. Stir to mix. Cool completely.
  7. Once cool, transfer to a jar with a tight lid.

Sprinkle the seeds over crisp vegetables or scrambled eggs, roast chicken, or anything needing an extra embellishment.

I’m taking the mix to share out at Fiesta Friday #67. The recipe makes enough to share with the gang at Angie’s. Come join us to see what is cooking.

Fiesta Friday