Relishes and Pickles

April in the Kitchen – Grilled Asparagus with Pickled Asparagus and Prosciutto
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April in the Kitchen – Grilled Asparagus with Pickled Asparagus and Prosciutto

Juxtaposing grilled and pickled asparagus highlights two sides of this wonderful spring vegetable. On the grill, the asparagus is smoky and meaty. In vinegar, it’s grassy and green with just enough tartness to counter the richness of a slice pf prosciutto. If you topped this with a fried or poached egg, it would make a tasty savory brunch dish.

This recipe is adapted from “The Preservation Kitchen” by Paul Virant.

Grilled Asparagus with Pickled Asparagus

Grilled Asparagus with Pickled Asparagus

Grilled and Pickled Asparagus with Prosciutto

  • 6 spears pickled asparagus – commercial or home made (recipe below), thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons pickled asparagus pickling liquid
  • 1/4 cup of sliced spring onions, or finely minced shallots, or red onion
  • 1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard
  • Either 1/4 cup olive oil or 1/4 cup of sour cream
  • 1 pound fresh asparagus
  • 4 generous slices prosciutto
  • 1 cup of loosely packed and chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, chives and tarragon (optional)
Grilled Asparagus

Grilled Asparagus

  1.  Prepare a fire in your grill, preheat a stove top grill pan, or preheat you oven to 450 degrees F.
  2. In a small bowl stir together the pickled asparagus, pickling liquid, onion, and mustard. Whisk in the olive oil or sour cream, add a pinch of salt and pepper to taste.
  3. Rub the asparagus with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Grill or roast the asparagus until it is charred at the tips, about 10 minutes.
  4. Spread the slices of prosciutto on either individual plates or a platter.
  5. Arrange the warm asparagus on the prosciutto and top with the vinaigrette. Sprinkle the herbs on top.
  6. Serve each person a slice of proscuitto, some asparagus and sauce.
Grilled Asparagus with Proscuitto and Pickled Asparagus

Grilled Asparagus with Proscuitto and Pickled Asparagus

Substituting sour cream for olive oil also makes a delicious variation.

Grilled Asparagus with Pickled Asparagus Sauce

Grilled Asparagus with Pickled Asparagus Sauce

Pickled Asparagus – makes 4 quarts

  • 6 1/2 cups champagne vinegar
  • 3 1/2 cups water
  • 3 tablespoons Kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons of sugar
  • 4 teaspoons of cumin seeds
  • 8 sprigs of tarragon or fennel or dill
  • 4 whole cloves of garlic, peeled and halved
  • 16 cups of asparagus, trimmed
  1. In a pot, bring the vinegar, water, salt and sugar to a boil. Keep hot. In a dry skillet toast the cumin seeds until fragrant, about a min.
  2. Scald 4 quart jars in a large pot of simmering water fitted with a rack for processing the jars. Right before filling, put the jars on the counter. In each jar, place a teaspoon of cumin seeds, 2 sprigs of thyme, and 2 garlic clove halves. Meanwhile, soak the lids in a pan of hot water.
  3. In a large pot of boiling and salted water, blanch the asparagus for 1 minute. Drain the asparagus and pack the stalks into the jars, tips up.
  4. Pour the hot brine over the asparagus, leaving about a 1-inch space from the rim. Check for air pockets and add more brine if necessary. Seal with the lids and screw on the bands.
  5. Place the jars in the pot with the rack and add enough hot water to cover by at least an inch. Bring the water to a boil and process for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the jars sit in the water for a few minutes. Remove the jars from the water to a dish cloth on the counter and cool completely.

Please consult a canning book for more details.

I am taking this to Fiesta Friday to party with Angie and friends.

Fiesta Friday

Fiesta Friday

Pickled Asparagus

Pickled Asparagus

March in the Kitchen – Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde
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March in the Kitchen – Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde

Salsa verde is a green herb sauce with an olive oil base. It is amazingly adaptable to what you have on hand and at its simplest consists of only parsley, garlic, olive oil and salt. In the book “Twelve Recipes” by Cal Peternell, he lists an amazing number of variations. Replace the parsley with basil (a simple version of pesto), cilantro, or chervil; or add a bit of rosemary, sage, and savory (finely chopped) along with the parsley; or add a chopped hard-boiled egg; anchovies are good; capers, chopped pickles…I think you get the picture.

This is a basic sauce that will last a week in the fridge. It has endless uses and will dress up everything from scrambled eggs to roast cauliflower. I used the last drops in a pasta dish (look for a future post) and it was delicious.

This is simple to make, you could hand chop everything but I simply put everything in my food processor and chopped them until it was a lovely green mess. The chili adds a punch; add a whole one if you like more spice. I wanted the lemon to shine through and kept the heat in control. A pinch of red pepper flakes would work if you don’t have a chili handy.

The sauce is a spring day in the middle of winter.

Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde

  • 1 bunch of cilantro, roughly chopped
  • 1 bunch of parsley, roughly chopped
  • 2 lemons – zest and juice
  • 1 large shallot, skinned and roughly chopped
  • 2 cloves of garlic, skinned and roughly chopped
  • ½ Serrano chili, seeded and roughly chopped
  • 1/3 cup of olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt
Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde

Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde

  1. Dump all the ingredients except the olive oil into the bowl of your food processor and process until finely chopped.
  2. Add the olive oil and continue to process until it becomes a smooth sauce.
  3. Taste for salt, mine needed the entire teaspoon.
Salsa Verde

Salsa Verde

Done!

Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde

Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde

It was wonderful on a simple vegetable side dish of roast cauliflower steaks and elevated a somewhat bland (but amazingly adaptable) vegetable to new heights.

Roast Cauliflower Steaks

Roast Cauliflower Steaks

Roast Cauliflower with Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde

Roast Cauliflower with Spicy Lemon Salsa Verde

February in the Kitchen – Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit
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February in the Kitchen – Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit

A glut of Meyer lemons has had me researching ways to use them before they rot. This recipe for Meyer Lemon Confit by Tara Austen Weaver in the Sunday Chronicle caught my eye. If you have a similar abundance, Meyers make a distinguished Lemon Curd and also do well salted and preserved. The article included a recipe for using the confit with Pasta with Kale. Since my garden also has an abundance of kale, it was a no brainer.

Meyer lemons are a hybrid cross between a lemon and an orange. Unlike the more commonly available Lisbon or Eureka lemons, Meyers are thinner skinned, juicier, and have less of a sour bite. Because of their mildness, they are not always suitable for recipes needing a lot of acid. But their flavor is slightly floral, delicate, and elusive. A bowl of them on the counter will fill your kitchen with fragrance. I once saw my son (as a toddler) pick one from the tree and eat it as if it were an apple.

Meyer Lemons

Meyer Lemons

They are named after Frank N. Meyer. Dr. Meyer was a Dutch plant explorer working for the U.S. Department of Agriculture. He found them in 1908 near Beijing and brought them back, it was one of about 2,500 specimens he is credited with collecting.

Meyer lemons have thrived in backyards and gardens throughout California, Texas, and Florida. But, they haven’t made it as a commercial crop because they don’t ripen well once picked from the tree and are thought to be too perishable. The Meyer almost died out in the 40’s when they were found to carry a virus, which threatened the California citrus crop (although it didn’t hurt the Meyer lemon). Trees were to be torn out and destroyed. Lucky for us an “improved” Meyer lemon released in 1975 was found to be virus free.

Meyer Lemon Tree

Meyer Lemon Tree in a Half Wine Barrel Container

There was a mature Meyer lemon tree in our backyard when we purchased the house 25 years ago. It has continued to provide us with lemons all year almost non-stop all year. The same tree will have mature lemons, immature lemons, and flowers at the same time. Meyers do well in containers, although they are frost tender and should be moved to a protected place in the winter.

Meyer Lemon

Meyer Lemon

Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit

  • 3 medium Meyer lemons (organic if possible)
  • ¼ cup of whole peeled garlic cloves
  • ½ cup of olive oil
  1. Preheat the oven to 275 degrees F.
  2. Wash and dry the lemons. Cut off the ends and slice them ¼ inch thick, removing any seeds.
  3. Cut the garlic cloves so they are approximately the same size.
  4. Set a saucepan full of water on high heat and bring it to a boil.
  5. Blanch the lemon slices for 90 seconds, removing them with a slotted spoon to a strainer set over a bowl. You may need to do this in several batches. Once drained, add them to a medium bowl.
  6. Add the garlic to the boiling water and simmer for about 4 minutes. Drain but DO NOT TOSS OUT THE WATER IF YOU ARE MAKING THE PASTA DISH BELOW.
  7. Add the olive oil to the bowl with the lemons and toss to coat with oil.
  8. Lay the lemons in a single layer in a rectangular baking dish leaving space at one end.
  9. Add the garlic cloves to the remaining oil in the bowl. Toss to coat. Then add them to the empty side of the baking dish.
  10. Drizzle with any remaining oil in the bowl.
  11. Bake for 1-½ hours until the garlic mashes easily and the lemon rinds are soft. Turn the lemons every 30 minutes.
  12. When done, remove the pan from the oven and allow it to cool.
  13. Finely chop the mixture and transfer it to a tightly sealed jar.

The Lemon and Garlic Confit will keep for a month in the fridge, freeze it for longer storage.

Sliced Meyer Lemons
Meyer Lemons and Garlic Cloves
Meyer Lemon Confit

 

Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit

Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit

Dino Kale – Tuscan Kale
Chopped Dino Kale

Pasta with Kale and Lemon Confit (serves 4-6 as a main dish)

  • 1 pound of pasta, I used linguini
  • Water from blanching lemons and garlic
  • 2 bunches of Tuscan kale (you want about 5 cups when chopped and packed down in the cup)
  • ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes
  • 2 ½ tablespoons of Lemon & garlic confit
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
  • Grated Meyer lemon zest, to taste (I used one additional lemon)
  • ½ cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  1. Wash the kale and remove any tough center stems. Finely chop the leaves.
  2. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil (this can be the left over blanching water plus extra as needed). Once it boils, add the pasta and cook for the recommended time. Drain but do not rinse, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
  3. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add the kale, stirring while it wilts and cooks down for about 2 minutes. The kale will be slightly crispy like dried nori.
  4. Add the red pepper flakes and salt, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for another 10 minutes while the pasta is cooking.
  5. Stir in the Meyer Lemon Confit.
  6. Add the drained pasta to the frying pan; toss to mix with the kale. Add a little of the pasta cooking water if the mixture seems dry.
  7. Add the lemon juice, lemon rind, and taste for salt.
  8. Serve hot topped with Parmesan.
Pasta with Kale and Meyer Lemon Confit

Pasta with Kale and Meyer Lemon Confit

It was also good stuffed under the skin of a chicken breast, sauteed (skin up), and finished in the oven.

Chciken stuffed under the skin with lemon & garlic confit

Chciken stuffed under the skin with lemon & garlic confit

Bon Appetit!

This post is part of the monthly link up party “Our Growing Edge“. This event aims to connect food bloggers and inspire us to try new things. February 2015 is hosted by Kim at the blog Love, Live, Life by Kim.

our-growing-edge-badge

I’m also taking this pasta dish to share at Fiesta Friday #54, a weekly bloggers virtual dinner party hosted by Angie at the Novice Gardener. Please come join the fun.

Fiesta Friday

 

December in the kitchen – Last minute presents from the kitchen
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December in the kitchen – Last minute presents from the kitchen

Is anyone else in a panic this year? Christmas snuck up on me, it seems like it was only just Thanksgiving! How did that happen? I need more time! I spent last week on the East coast for a job interview (yes, after a year of retirement I am going back to full time work), and visits with friends in Annapolis, MD and Boston, MA. I had a wonderful time but, (it’s a big BUT) when I got home, Christmas was suddenly on top of me and I AM NOT prepared. Add to that, guilt. Why guilt? Because I am reading a lot of blogs, and they are full of amazing holiday baking of which I have done NONE.

To put it calmly (and I am not feeling very calm), I am way behind on my holiday shopping.

I usually make gifts from my kitchen for family, friends and as hostess gifts. On the short list this year is hot-and-sweet mustard, lemon curd, and a “kit in a jar” for making gluten free pizza dough.

Just in case you are in the same boat as I am, the first two can be quickly put together. And, the pizza kit only needs a trip to a well supplied market.

Lemon-Lime Curd is a variation of the popular lemon curd. If you prefer to use only lemons, use all lemon juice and lemon zest. Home made curd is infinitely better than anything you can get in the store. I like it on toast in the morning, it is excellent as a filling for tarts, and a dollop on a plain custard or cake is transforming. It keeps in the refrigerator for a week and can be frozen for 2 months. This recipe is adapted from Fine Cooking. It’s remarkable in that it turns out smooth and silky curd without any droplets of egg white.

Lemon-Lime Curd                          (makes about 2 cups)

  • 3 oz. (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
  • 1 cup of sugar 
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 2/3 cup of combined lemon and lime juice (I used 1/3 cup of lemon juice and 1/3 cup of lime
  • 1 teaspoon of finely grated lime zest
  1. In a large bowl, beat the softened butter with the sugar using an electric mixer, about 2 minutes.
  2. One at a time add the whole eggs, then the egg yolks, beating between each. When all are added continue to beat for another 1 minute.
  3. Add the lemon and lime juice, the mixture will curdle. Don’t worry, it will smooth out once heated.IMG_2231
  4. Transfer the mixture to a heavy saucepan and heat on on low until smooth.

    Smooth curd after heating

    Smooth curd after heating

  5. Increase the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. It will take about 15 minutes. You’ll know it is cone when it leaves a path on the back of your spoon (about 170 degrees).
  6. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lime zest.
  7. Transfer to individual jars and chill.

IMG_2234

Lemon Curd

Lemon Lime Curd

The mustard recipe comes from 2012 Bon Appetit. You will be shocked at how easy it is to make your own mustard and this one is a winner.

Hirsheimer’s Hot & Sweet Mustard       (makes about 2 1/2 cups)

  • 3/4 cup (packed) light brown sugar
  • 1 4 oz. jar of Coleman’s dry mustard
  • 1 cup good quality apple cider vinegar
  • 1/4 cup honey
  • 3 large eggs, beaten to blend
  1.  Whisk the brown sugar and mustard powder together to combine.
  2. Add the vinegar and honey, whisk well.
  3. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve into a large metal bowl.
  4. Add the eggs and whisk until blended.
  5. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, be careful that the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water.

    Spicy mustard

    Spicy mustard

  6. Cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the bowl frequently, until the mustard is thick. An instant read thermometer will read 160 degrees F, it will take about 5 minutes.
  7. Divide the mustard among small jars. Screw on the lids and chill.
Hot and Sweet Mustard

Hot and Sweet Mustard

The mustard keeps for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.

Gluten Free Pizza Dough Kit

The gluten free pizza recipe comes from the blog, “The Bojon Gourmet“; it’s a blog with beautiful pictures and  great recipes. Many of them are both gluten free and vegetarian. Do you find, as I do, that increasing numbers of your friends are giving up gluten? It wasn’t even on my radar a few years ago. Now I find myself reading labels and researching the internet for gluten free recipes when I am planning a dinner party…however, I digress.) Her thin and crispy gluten free pizza dough is a winner, however it contains 6 types of flour plus chia seeds. That’s a lot of pantry items! My friend, Wendy, from Quilt Mamas, had an idea. What about a premixed jar of the flours? It would be a great holiday gift. She’s very creative, what a wonderful idea! A one time purchase on your part would gift several of your pizza loving but gluten intolerant friends.

Include a package of dry yeast and a small bottle of olive oil for extra pizazz. Or, include one of several items it is suggested you have on hand for making the pizza:

baking stone (or an inverted heavy-duty baking sheet)
parchment paper
pizza peel (or rimless baking sheet/large cutting board)
tongs
pizza wheel (or large, sharp chef’s knife) 

Mix the following dry ingredients together:

  • ¾ cup of GF oat flour (24 oz./7 grams)
  • ½ cup of sweet white rice flour (mochiko) (2.75 oz./80 grams)
  • ½ cup of millet flour (2.25 oz./60 grams)
  • 6 tablespoons of brown rice flour (2 oz./55 grams) plus more as needed
  • ¼ cup of cornstarch (1 oz./30 grams)
  • 2 tablespoons of tapioca flour (.5 oz./15 grams)
  • 3 tablespoons of ground chia seed (.5 oz./15 grams)
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 2 teaspoons of sugar

Olive oil                                                                                                                                                       1 packet active dry yeast (24 oz/7 grams)

Her blog has very detailed instuctions for making the pizza, You can either reprint the instructions or give a card with the web address:

The Bojon Gourmet – Thin and crisp gluten free pizza dough

I don’t have a picture because I am madly trying to get this post out so you have time to make these for your friends and family. I’ll post a picture when I get it put together. Picture in your mind a quart canning jar with a big red ribbon, package of yeast attached.

Have a wonderful holiday!

Just in case anyone else is in a panic, I’m taking this to the special addition of full plate Thursday coming out early this week.

December in the kitchen – Pickle marinated chicken leg quarters
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December in the kitchen – Pickle marinated chicken leg quarters

I have to admit it; I am still kicking myself over the loss of that pickling brine from the red beets. Do you remember, I poured the extra brine down the sink just as the deliciousness of it sunk in?! I cannot seem to get it out of my head. Would you say my brain is pickled? Maybe if you know me!

So, when we recently finished a jar of pickled asparagus, I didn’t make the same mistake. I saved it. Pickled asparagus is delicious with softly scrambled eggs and goat cheese, that’s how we finished off the jar last weekend. The big asparagus season comes in March and April here in California, but there have been some tiny thin ones in the store. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised as it has been sprouting in my garden as well. I usually pass by the thin ones, preferring the larger and more flavorful stalks. But, asparagus pickle juice and fresh asparagus hmm; the combination caught my imagination.

Pickle brine

Pickle brine

“Bon appetite” had an article for pickle brine marinated fried chicken a few months ago. I don’t do a lot of frying but thought I could use that idea for some roast chicken thighs. The asparagus could roast at the same temperature, maybe some sweet potatoes as well. They would add a sweet note to the sharpness of vinegar.

I made a simple version of a blender mayonnaise to go with the chicken and asparagus.

I was very happy with the results.

Pickle brine marinated chicken thighs

  • 4 chicken leg quarters
  • 1 ½ to 2 cups of left over pickle brine (mine was asparagus brine, recipe below)
  • Olive oil
Pickle brined chicken leg quarters

Pickle brined chicken leg quarters

  1. Pat the chicken pieces dry and place in a large bowl. Add the pickle brine, it should cover them. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 1 to 3 hours.
  2. Preheat your oven to 425 degrees F
  3. At the end of the brining, pat the chicken dry and put in a roasting pan, skin side up.
  4. Place into the preheated oven. You can add the sweet potatoes at this same time if you are baking them to go with the chicken.
  5. Roast for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until brown and juices run clear. You will put the asparagus into bake at the 1 hour mark.
  6. Trim and the asparagus, put into a baking pan in a single layer. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with kosher salt and grated parmesan. Place in the oven for the last 15 minutes (if your asparagus is thicker, it could need 20 minutes).
asparagus

Roast asparagus

Asparagus sauce – blender mayonnaise with pickled vegetables

Blender mayonnaise with pickles

Blender mayonnaise with pickles

  • 1 cup of salad oil, I used ½ cup canola and ½ cup olive
  • 1 egg
  • ½ teaspoon dry powdered mustard
  • 2 tablespoons of pickle brine
  • 4 tablespoons of chopped pickles (asparagus, green beans, golden beets, cucumber pickles). Same as were in the brine.
  1. Into the container of a blender put the egg, mustard, pickle brine, and ¼ cup of the oil.
  2. Cover the container and blend at low speed.
  3. Immediately uncover and add the remaining oil in a steady stream (try to do this in about seconds).
  4. Switch the blender to high for 5 seconds.
  5. Add the chopped pickles and blend until a smooth puree.
  6. Serve with the chicken and roast asparagus.
roast chicken quarters with asparagus and sweet potato

roast chicken quarters with asparagus and sweet potato

You could use brind from any kind of pickle although I’m not sure about sweet ones. Let me know if anyone tries it.

Brine from Pickled Asparagus with Tarragon and Garlic (from Saving the Season by Kevin West).

  • 1 1/2 cups white-wine vinegar
  • 1 1/2 cups water
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons of kosher salt
  • 2 teaspoons of sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked
  • 2 allspice berries, crushed
  • 1/2 bay leaf
  • 1 sprig fresh thyme
  • six 4 inch sprigs of tarragon
  • 3 cloves of garlic
  1. Bring all the ingredients to a boil, remove from the heat and steep for 15 minutes.
  2. Cool if using as a marinade.

If you are interested in the full pickle recipe, I can send it to you.

I’ll be taking this to Miz Helen’s Country Kitchen, Full Plate Thursday.