Main courses

The Cookbook Guru – Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book
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The Cookbook Guru – Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book

“Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book” is the January and February selection for the Cookbook Guru. This is an on-line virtual book club for cookbook fans.

Jane Grigson's Vegetable Book

Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book

Here is how it works, at the beginning of every second month a recipe book is  announced, you get the next two months to pick a recipe from that book and create a post around it. If this sounds like something that you’d be interested in being a part of, make sure you jump over to The Cookbook Guru for the new year’s book list and to see how it all works.  Join in for one or all books, or just follow along to see what we create.  The more people we have as part of the book club the more value we get out of the experience and our current members are passionate foodies and regular commenters that love to talk about each of our experiences with the books we have been cooking from.

If you would like to join but don’t have a food blog, you can still be part. Check out the Facebook Page and post your photographs and comments there. You can also post photos of Instagram, be sure to tag the group @thecookbookguru.

For me cookbooks verge on an obsession and no opportunity to sample another gets past me. A book club with like minded individuals is a joy! I was already familiar with Jane Grigson as I had an earlier book of hers, “Good Times”. It was one of the first books in my collection. Jane Grigson deserves a place with other early pioneers of wonderful food like Elizabeth David and Julia Child. She was part of a revolution in the kitchen.

The first thing my husband said on seeing the book was “What, no pictures!” Modern cookbooks have gorgeous photographs and a whole food styling industry has grown up around it. I sometimes think that the recipes have suffered and taken second place. This book has some simple line drawings but no pictures. The emphasis is on the recipes.

I did find that some of recipes in this cookbook are more a set of directions than a detailed description. None of the recipes seemed overly complicated or filled with exotic ingredients, but I think beginning cooks might have a difficult time. Her assumption is that you are fairly comfortable in the kitchen.

As a gardener I particularly enjoyed her descriptions of various vegetables, some of them were unfamiliar to me (even more fun). Each chapter is a different vegetable or family group of vegetables; she includes entertaining background information as well as recipes. It is a fun book to read and will become a valuable reference.

That being said, I found some of the recipes dated. I definitely see the touch of the 70’s. Cooking and styles of eating have changed since then. It took me quite a while to settle on a recipe although I gained inspiration for several other posts.

Persian Spinach Kuku

Persian Spinach Kuku

I decided to make (it’s the name that got me):

PERSIAN SPINACH KUKU

Or KUKUYE ESPANAJ

This is essentially a flat Spanish tortilla, or crustless quiche, or omelet made with spinach, potato and eggs. There is no cheese, something I might add next time. I think the flavor would be improved by a touch of Parmesan.

  • 1 large potato, peeled and cubed
  • 8 tablespoons of olive oil or clarified butter
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 1 lb (1/2 kg) of spinach, blanched and chopped (I used two small bags of organic baby spinach, blanched for 2 minutes)
  • 5 eggs
  • Salt, pepper, pinch sugar (I did not use), lemon juice (I used grated lemon rind)
browning onions and potatoes

browning onions and potatoes

  1. Blanch the spinach in a few tablespoons of boiling water, stirring to make sure it all cooks. Drain, pressing down to get rid of all the liquid. Chop and put into a large bowl.
  2. Peel the potato and cut into small to medium dice.
  3. Melt the butter or warm the olive oil in a non-stick oven proof skillet on medium high heat.
  4. Add the potato and sauté until beginning to brown.
  5. Meanwhile chop the onion, add it to the skillet with the potato. Continue to cook until the onion is softened and potato is golden brown.
  6. Add the mixture to the bowl with the spinach and mix. Season well with salt, pepper and lemon rind or juice.
  7. Beat the eggs in a small bowl and then add them to the spinach mixture.
  8. Melt the second 4 tablespoons of butter or olive oil to the skillet, and pour in the spinach/egg/potato/onion mix. Flatten it to an even layer.
  9. Cover and heat on medium for 15 minutes. The center should just be firm.
  10. At this point you can either broil the top to brown it, or slide it out onto a plate and turn to brown the other side. Bake a few minutes longer.
Into the skillet

Into the skillet

Persian Spinach Kuku

Persian Spinach Kuku

This can also be baked in a gratin dish and served with tomato sauce or yogurt.

I cut it into triangles and we had it for brunch. It was delicious cold the next day. A bit of crumbled bacon would be a good addition.

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February in the Kitchen – Perfect Pork Chops
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February in the Kitchen – Perfect Pork Chops

Cooking perfect pork chops is not easy. I often find them dry, tough, and almost flavorless because of the lack of fat. The marketing program “the other white meat” has done a lot of damage to the pork industry (my opinion). That being said, there is a huge difference between your typical grocery store pork and the well raised, well-fed heritage pork that you find in better butcher shops and the farmer’s market.

Here’s some good advice on cooking the chops from Dawn Perry, food editor at Bon Appetit.

  1. Buy well-marbled heritage pork if at all possible.
  2. Purchase your pork chops bone in. It slows down the meat’s cooking (allowing you to get a good sear on the chop before it overcooks) and gives a richer flavor.
  3. Season well with a lot of salt and pepper. This will give you a flavorful crust.
  4. Let your chops sit outside the fridge for 30 minutes before you cook them. If they are too cold the outside will overcook while the inside is still raw.
  5. Start with a VERY hot pan, and then take it down to medium.
  6. Do not cut off the outside fat. Instead use your tongs to stand the chop on its side, melting the fat and rendering brown and crispy.
  7. Use an instant read thermometer to tell you when it is done. Cook the chops to around 135 degrees F, and then transfer them to a cutting board or platter. The residual heat will bring the internal temperature up to the USDA’s recommended 145 degrees F.
  8. Do not touch or cut them for at least 10 minutes to let the juices settle back into the meat.

When I saw some well-marbled, humanely raised pork chops at my local butcher I decided to give them a try (it has probably been several years since my last failed effort). I had the idea to treat them the same way I do chicken breasts; brining and then cooking them in a hot skillet, finishing in the oven. They turned out delicious, juicy and flavorful.

Pork Chops

Heritage Pork Chops

Tender and Juicy Pork Chops

Brine:

  • 3 cups of water
  • 3 tablespoons kosher salt
  • optional – allspice, black peppercorns, crushed garlic, fresh herbs

Pork chops:

  • 4 bone in pork chops
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper

30 minutes to 4 hours before you intend to cook the chops brine the chops:

  1. Bring one cup of the water to a boil in a small saucepan, add the salt (and optional additional flavorings), and stir until it dissolves. Add the two cups of cool water to the hot water. Cool to room temperature.
  2. Put the chops into a large bowl and pour the brine over them. The brine should cover the chops. If you need additional brine the ratio is one cup of water to one tablespoon of kosher salt.
  3. Cover the bowl and put in the fridge.
  4. 30 minutes before you intend to cook them, take the bowl out of the fridge, pour off the brine, dry the chops and coat them with olive oil. Let them sit on the counter to warm to room temperature.
  5. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F. Place an ovenproof skillet, (large enough to hold the chops in one layer) into the oven to heat.
  6. Remove the skillet from the oven, be careful to use mitts or protection for you hands. Turn on the oven fan or open a window (things are about to turn smoky).
  7. Lay the pork chops in the hot skillet on medium high; they should immediately start to sizzle. You can use tongs to hold them on their sides and sear the outer fat.
  8. Let them sear for about 3 minutes until the underside is golden.
  9. Flip the chops and transfer the hot skillet to the preheated oven.
  10. Roast until cooked through. Start checking at 6 minutes.
  11. Rest the chops for at least 10 minutes.

I smeared the chops with some of my Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit after flipping them, and before putting into the oven. I know Meyer lemons are more common in California and Texas. Don’t let that stop you from making the confit. Simply subsitute two regular lemons and one orange. Try to get organic ones since you will be using the rind.

Pork Chops

Oven finished pork chops

I count this dinner a big success! I served it with sautéed broccoli rabe from the garden.

Pork Chops

Perfect Pork Chops with Broccoli Rabe

February in the Kitchen – Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit
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February in the Kitchen – Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit

A glut of Meyer lemons has had me researching ways to use them before they rot. This recipe for Meyer Lemon Confit by Tara Austen Weaver in the Sunday Chronicle caught my eye. If you have a similar abundance, Meyers make a distinguished Lemon Curd and also do well salted and preserved. The article included a recipe for using the confit with Pasta with Kale. Since my garden also has an abundance of kale, it was a no brainer.

Meyer lemons are a hybrid cross between a lemon and an orange. Unlike the more commonly available Lisbon or Eureka lemons, Meyers are thinner skinned, juicier, and have less of a sour bite. Because of their mildness, they are not always suitable for recipes needing a lot of acid. But their flavor is slightly floral, delicate, and elusive. A bowl of them on the counter will fill your kitchen with fragrance. I once saw my son (as a toddler) pick one from the tree and eat it as if it were an apple.

Meyer Lemons

Meyer Lemons

They are named after Frank N. Meyer. Dr. Meyer was a Dutch plant explorer working for the U.S. Department of Agriculture. He found them in 1908 near Beijing and brought them back, it was one of about 2,500 specimens he is credited with collecting.

Meyer lemons have thrived in backyards and gardens throughout California, Texas, and Florida. But, they haven’t made it as a commercial crop because they don’t ripen well once picked from the tree and are thought to be too perishable. The Meyer almost died out in the 40’s when they were found to carry a virus, which threatened the California citrus crop (although it didn’t hurt the Meyer lemon). Trees were to be torn out and destroyed. Lucky for us an “improved” Meyer lemon released in 1975 was found to be virus free.

Meyer Lemon Tree

Meyer Lemon Tree in a Half Wine Barrel Container

There was a mature Meyer lemon tree in our backyard when we purchased the house 25 years ago. It has continued to provide us with lemons all year almost non-stop all year. The same tree will have mature lemons, immature lemons, and flowers at the same time. Meyers do well in containers, although they are frost tender and should be moved to a protected place in the winter.

Meyer Lemon

Meyer Lemon

Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit

  • 3 medium Meyer lemons (organic if possible)
  • ¼ cup of whole peeled garlic cloves
  • ½ cup of olive oil
  1. Preheat the oven to 275 degrees F.
  2. Wash and dry the lemons. Cut off the ends and slice them ¼ inch thick, removing any seeds.
  3. Cut the garlic cloves so they are approximately the same size.
  4. Set a saucepan full of water on high heat and bring it to a boil.
  5. Blanch the lemon slices for 90 seconds, removing them with a slotted spoon to a strainer set over a bowl. You may need to do this in several batches. Once drained, add them to a medium bowl.
  6. Add the garlic to the boiling water and simmer for about 4 minutes. Drain but DO NOT TOSS OUT THE WATER IF YOU ARE MAKING THE PASTA DISH BELOW.
  7. Add the olive oil to the bowl with the lemons and toss to coat with oil.
  8. Lay the lemons in a single layer in a rectangular baking dish leaving space at one end.
  9. Add the garlic cloves to the remaining oil in the bowl. Toss to coat. Then add them to the empty side of the baking dish.
  10. Drizzle with any remaining oil in the bowl.
  11. Bake for 1-½ hours until the garlic mashes easily and the lemon rinds are soft. Turn the lemons every 30 minutes.
  12. When done, remove the pan from the oven and allow it to cool.
  13. Finely chop the mixture and transfer it to a tightly sealed jar.

The Lemon and Garlic Confit will keep for a month in the fridge, freeze it for longer storage.

Sliced Meyer Lemons
Meyer Lemons and Garlic Cloves
Meyer Lemon Confit

 

Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit

Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit

Dino Kale – Tuscan Kale
Chopped Dino Kale

Pasta with Kale and Lemon Confit (serves 4-6 as a main dish)

  • 1 pound of pasta, I used linguini
  • Water from blanching lemons and garlic
  • 2 bunches of Tuscan kale (you want about 5 cups when chopped and packed down in the cup)
  • ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes
  • 2 ½ tablespoons of Lemon & garlic confit
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
  • Grated Meyer lemon zest, to taste (I used one additional lemon)
  • ½ cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  1. Wash the kale and remove any tough center stems. Finely chop the leaves.
  2. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil (this can be the left over blanching water plus extra as needed). Once it boils, add the pasta and cook for the recommended time. Drain but do not rinse, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
  3. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add the kale, stirring while it wilts and cooks down for about 2 minutes. The kale will be slightly crispy like dried nori.
  4. Add the red pepper flakes and salt, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for another 10 minutes while the pasta is cooking.
  5. Stir in the Meyer Lemon Confit.
  6. Add the drained pasta to the frying pan; toss to mix with the kale. Add a little of the pasta cooking water if the mixture seems dry.
  7. Add the lemon juice, lemon rind, and taste for salt.
  8. Serve hot topped with Parmesan.
Pasta with Kale and Meyer Lemon Confit

Pasta with Kale and Meyer Lemon Confit

It was also good stuffed under the skin of a chicken breast, sauteed (skin up), and finished in the oven.

Chciken stuffed under the skin with lemon & garlic confit

Chciken stuffed under the skin with lemon & garlic confit

Bon Appetit!

This post is part of the monthly link up party “Our Growing Edge“. This event aims to connect food bloggers and inspire us to try new things. February 2015 is hosted by Kim at the blog Love, Live, Life by Kim.

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I’m also taking this pasta dish to share at Fiesta Friday #54, a weekly bloggers virtual dinner party hosted by Angie at the Novice Gardener. Please come join the fun.

Fiesta Friday

 

January in the Kitchen – Friday Chicken
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January in the Kitchen – Friday Chicken

Friday Chicken

I first encountered this recipe for a roast chicken stuffed under the skin (Friday Chicken) in a cookbook by Mary and Vincent Price (yes, that Vincent Price!), A Treasury of Great Recipes, published in 1965. They called it “Friday Chicken” because it’s perfect weekend food. Serve it to your family and friends on a Friday evening; then eat the leftovers cold over the weekend. It’s a wonderful choice for an elegant picnic or lunch.

Friday Chicken

Mary and Vincent Price (Friday Chicken in lower right hand corner)

Richard Olney had his own version called “Poulet Fendu Farci” in his book Simple French Food. He used a mixture of ricotta, Parmesan, herbs, butter, onion and zucchini. There are no breadcrumbs in that stuffing recipe; it would be a good choice for Paleo or gluten free diets. (Let me know if you would be interested in seeing that recipe in another post.)

Over the years I’ve read (and cooked) several other variations. The basic idea is the same in them all; stuff the chicken under the skin with something flavorful, then roast it. You could use pesto, butter and fresh herbs, ricotta and spinach, or (as in this case) an actual stuffing. I’m partial to the one I use with our Thanksgiving turkey. The stuffing bastes the chicken ensuring wonderfully juicy flavorful white meat and crisp skin.

Substitute your own favorite stuffing and it will be equally delicious. There are a few rules though…use use fresh bread rather than dried croutons or cubes, make sure the sausage is cooked, and don’t spare the butter or oil. The stuffing needs to be cool before handling so time it appropriately.

I’m taking this to Fiesta Friday as part of the second block party celebrating the one year anniversay of Angie’s (from the blog The Novice Gardener) weekly celebration. Fiesta Friday joins together bloggers interested in food, travel, and related topics for a weekly virtual party. Last week we concentrated on appetizers and drinks, this week it will be main courses and desserts. Friday Chicken makes great leftovers!

Fiesta Friday

Fiesta Friday

Friday Chicken – Stuffing

  • 4 tablespoons of butter, plus more if needed
  • 1 pound of sweet Italian sausage, either bulk or removed from casings
  • 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
  • 2 large stalks of celery, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon Herbs de Provence
  • ¼ teaspoon fennel seeds
  • Pinch or red pepper flakes
  • 2 fresh brioche rolls or other soft bread, torn into pieces
  • 8 oz. of cornbread, crumbled
  • 2 small handfuls of golden raisins or currents
Stuffing

Sausage and Raisin Stuffing

  • 1 large chicken (I’ve used roasting chickens to great success and more leftovers)
  1. Melt the butter in a large skillet.
  2. Add the sausage, crumble it into small pieces as it browns.
  3. Add the onion, celery, Herbs de Provence, fennel seeds and red pepper flakes.
  4. Stir and continue to sauté on medium heat until the onion and celery are softened, about 10 minutes.
  5. Meanwhile tear the cornbread and brioche bread into pieces in a large bowl.
  6. Add the raisins and mix.
  7. When cooked, add the contents of the skillet and mix well.
  8. If the contents look dry (it depends on how much fat is in your sausage), add another 2 tablespoons of butter to the skillet to melt. Then add it to the bowl.
  9. Cover and set aside to cool. In my household that needs to be far away from the edge of the counter and the reach of the dogs.

Preparing and baking the chicken

  1. Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.
  2. You will need a roasting pan big enough to hold a rack, preferably V shapped
  3. Remove about 2 cups of stuffing into another bowl (you will not want to contaminate the bulk of the stuffing)
  4. Dry the whole chicken with paper towels, inside and out
  5. Gently, with your hands, loosen the skin over the breast and legs. You do this by gently sliding your hand under the skin. Be careful not to tear it.
  6. Press the stuffing into the cavity you’ve created completely covering the breast and pushing the stuffing over the tops of the legs and thighs. If it tears slightly (this often happens near the tail end) use a small skewer or toothpick to sew the skin together.
  7. Brush the chicken with butter or oil and place on the rack.
  8. Roast for about 1 hour and 20 minutes or until done, timing will depend on the size of your chicken and how “done” you like it. We prefer our chicken still very slightly pink. If it browns too quickly, tent the breast loosely with foil.
Prepared Chicken Before Roasting (I know it looks anemic)

Prepared Chicken Before Roasting (I know it looks anemic)

Friday Chicken

Friday Chicken After Roasting

Baked Remaining stuffing

  1. Put the remaining stuffing into a baking dish, add about ¾ cup of chicken stock and cover the dish with foil.
  2. When the chicken has baked for 35 minutes, add the stuffing to the oven.
  3. Bake covered for 25 minutes, then uncover until the top has browned and is crisp.
  4. Serve with the chicken.
Raisin Stuffing

Baked Stuffing with Sausage and Raisins

This stuffing is exceptional. Over the years I’ve changed it to reflect the changing tastes of my family and friends. The original “seed” recipe came from my (now ex) mother-in-law in Wisconsin. She used hamburger rolls, poultry seasoning, margarine, and raisins. The raisins have remained as a crucial part of the recipe.

Use any leftover stuffing in sandwiches, as a “bed” for poached eggs, or in a bread soup. The cornbread and brioche will thicken the broth beautifully.

Panini with stuffing

Stuffing Panini

The panini above was made with raisin stuffing (regular dark raisins), cranberry sauce, red onions, and mozzarella. It’s reason enough to make stuffing even if it isn’t Christmas or Thanksgiving.

Friday Chicken

Friday Chicken

Janurary in the Kitchen – Braised Rabbit
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Janurary in the Kitchen – Braised Rabbit

We don’t see rabbit much on restaurant menus in the US; it is more common in Europe. However Braised Rabbit is a personal favorite of mine and also popular with one of my best friends who was coming for dinner. Unlike widespread opinion, it doesn’t taste like chicken. It’s mild and clean tasting with a slight gaminess. The meat is very lean and needs to be treated carefully or it will be dry. I have found that it doesn’t have as much meat as a chicken and can be bony. One domestic rabbit will serve three people, four with small appetites.

Fresh rabbits are not in the main meat case at my local grocery store; you have to ask one of the butchers to fetch it from the freezer case in the back (behind the counter). Unfortunately they are frozen solid and whole. It was a bit intimidating encountering an entire bunny, which needed to be cut up BY ME after defrosting. I’m perfectly comfortable cutting up a chicken but a rabbit is entirely different. The first time was not pretty. My efforts on the second were better, helped by an instructional YouTube video. I’m continually amazed at how helpful the internet can be to cooks!

Rabbit

Rabbit

Rabbit Braised in White Wine and Sherry

Braised Rabbit

Braised Rabbit

  • 1 rabbit, cut into 8 pieces
  • 2 tablespoons of all purpose flour (I used gluten free)
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 large onion chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon Herbs de Provence
  • 4 sprigs of fresh thyme
  • 1 ½ cups of chicken stock
  • ½ cup of white wine
  • ½ cup of dry sherry
  • Freshly chopped parsley for serving
  1. Stir together the flour and salt in a large plastic bag or bowl. Add the rabbit and toss to coat.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium high heat. When hot, shake any extra flour off the rabbit and add it to the pot (you will need to do this in two batches, do not crowd the pieces).
  3. Brown, turning once, until golden on each side. Remove to a bowl and brown the second batch, transferring it to the same bowl.
  4. Add the onion to the pot and cook until softened but not brown, about 5 minutes. You may need to turn down the heat to medium.
  5. Add the Herbs de Provence, thyme, and garlic and cook for 1 minute.
  6. Add stock, wine, sherry, rabbit, and any juices in the bowl with the rabbit.
  7. Bring to a simmer, cover, lower the heat to low, and cook (turning occasionally) until the meat is tender. This will take about an hour.
  8. Transfer the rabbit to a bowl.
  9. Simmer the sauce, uncovered, until it begins to thicken. 8-10 minutes.
  10. Return the rabbit to the sauce and simmer until heated.
  11. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with parsley.
Rabbit

Braised Rabbit

It was delicious.

I served it with polenta, a green vegetable and salad. Fresh fruit, candied ginger, chocolates for dessert. Plus plenty of good wine, of course.