recipe

May in the Kitchen – Green Peach Salad
by

May in the Kitchen – Green Peach Salad

It’s almost June and summer is knocking at my door. The first peaches are in the market but they haven’t reached their peak for eating out of hand. Here is a way to use them while still green, a peak at the abundance to come. You can make this a few hours ahead although I wouldn’t leave it any longer.

I think this same technique would also work for apricots, plums, and nectarines.

The tip comes from Food 52, “The Genius Recipes“.

Green peaches - white and yellow

Green peaches – white and yellow

I used a mixture of white and yellow peaches and peeled them and sliced as if I was making a pie. Speaking of peeling, there is a nifty peeler for soft vegetables and fruits. You can even peel tomatoes with it. Oxo makes it and the blades are serrated. I highly recommend it.

Oxo peeler

Oxo peeler

Green Peach Salad

  • 3-4 unripe peaches, peeled and sliced into about 1/2 inch segments (easiest to peel, then slice into wedges before pitting)
  • 2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 2 tablespoons of fruity olive oil, use your most robust
  • 2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh mint leaves (basil would also be good)
  1. Toss the peaches with the sugar and salt.
  2. Let them sit for at least 10 minutes, or within a few hours. Refrigerate if longer than 10 minutes. The riper the peaches, the sooner you should eat the salad as they will soften.
  3. Fold in the pepper, oil and mint just before serving.

This would be a wonderful side dish with BBQ.

Green Peach Salad with Mint

Green Peach Salad with Mint

 

February in the Kitchen – Broccoli Raab a la Jane Grigson
by

February in the Kitchen – Broccoli Raab a la Jane Grigson

Like my recent posting of grilled asparagus, this post is the basic method for cooking broccoli raab, also sometimes called broccoletti di rape, or rapini. It has multiple names, including rapine, rappi, rappje, turnip broccoli, tailcat, Italian or chicness broccoli, broccoli de rabe, Italtiona turnip, and turnip broccoli. Whew!

Broccoli raab is allotted only one recipe in “Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book” published in the 1970’s. Until recently it was fairly uncommon in both the UK and the US. I found her recipe under the section on turnips (and swedes?) with whom they are closely related. She recommended serving them cool with a lemon and olive oil vinaigrette, or hot in a similar way as the recipe below. I’m currently exploring the cookbook as part of an on-line cookbook book club (say that 10 times quickly!). You can read more posts inspired by the book on the website The Cookbook Guru.

Jane Grigson's Vegetable Book

Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book

This vegetable originates in the Mediterranean and China. It is a descendant from a wild herb and is found growing wild (as well as cultivated) in California, Arizona, New Jersey, Quebec and Ontario. Among the Chinese it is one of their most popular vegetables. Broccoli raab is grown as much for its long-standing, tasty, mustard like tops as for its multiple small florets.

Broccoli raab

Broccoli raab

Broccoli raab is a rich source of vitamins A, C, and K, as well as potassium. It tastes a bit like broccoli but is more pungent with a nutty flavor and a slightly bitter taste.

When buying it at the grocers look for bright green leaves that are crisp and upright, not yellowed or wilted. Unlike broccoli you do not need to peel the stems. If the stems are large, start by sautéing them for a few minutes before adding the leaves to the pan. That will allow them to soften a bit.

Broccoli raab

Broccoli raab

How to Cook Broccoli Raab or Rapini

You can cook the leaves, stems and flower heads like broccoli (broil, stir-fry, braise, sauté, or steam). My preference is to blanch them briefly in boiling water (1-2 minutes) and then sauté with thinly sliced garlic and a chopped shallot, finishing with a couple of finely chopped anchovies or a teaspoon of anchovy paste seems to really fill out the umami flavor (a few dried red pepper flakes can also give a punch).

  1. Rinse and trim 1/4-inch from bottom of stems.
  2. Cut stalks crosswise into 2-inch pieces and drop them into salted (optional), boiling water.
  3. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes and remove with slotted spoon. Drain.
  4. Heat 3 or 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet.
  5. Add 2 thinly sliced garlic cloves and a finely chopped shallot; turn the heat down to medium and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes until softened. Be careful not to burn the garlic or it will turn bitter.
  6. Add the blanched broccoli raab/rapini to the skillet and continue to sauté for another 5 minutes until cooked. If the stalks were large, add and cook for a few minutes before adding the leaves.
  7. Optional – Add 2-3 finely chopped anchovies and a few dried red pepper flakes.
Broccoli Raab

Sauteed Broccoli Raab

You could also toss the finished broccoli raab with some pasta and top with freshly grated parmesan. It’s delicious that way.

February in the Kitchen – Perfect Pork Chops
by

February in the Kitchen – Perfect Pork Chops

Cooking perfect pork chops is not easy. I often find them dry, tough, and almost flavorless because of the lack of fat. The marketing program “the other white meat” has done a lot of damage to the pork industry (my opinion). That being said, there is a huge difference between your typical grocery store pork and the well raised, well-fed heritage pork that you find in better butcher shops and the farmer’s market.

Here’s some good advice on cooking the chops from Dawn Perry, food editor at Bon Appetit.

  1. Buy well-marbled heritage pork if at all possible.
  2. Purchase your pork chops bone in. It slows down the meat’s cooking (allowing you to get a good sear on the chop before it overcooks) and gives a richer flavor.
  3. Season well with a lot of salt and pepper. This will give you a flavorful crust.
  4. Let your chops sit outside the fridge for 30 minutes before you cook them. If they are too cold the outside will overcook while the inside is still raw.
  5. Start with a VERY hot pan, and then take it down to medium.
  6. Do not cut off the outside fat. Instead use your tongs to stand the chop on its side, melting the fat and rendering brown and crispy.
  7. Use an instant read thermometer to tell you when it is done. Cook the chops to around 135 degrees F, and then transfer them to a cutting board or platter. The residual heat will bring the internal temperature up to the USDA’s recommended 145 degrees F.
  8. Do not touch or cut them for at least 10 minutes to let the juices settle back into the meat.

When I saw some well-marbled, humanely raised pork chops at my local butcher I decided to give them a try (it has probably been several years since my last failed effort). I had the idea to treat them the same way I do chicken breasts; brining and then cooking them in a hot skillet, finishing in the oven. They turned out delicious, juicy and flavorful.

Pork Chops

Heritage Pork Chops

Tender and Juicy Pork Chops

Brine:

  • 3 cups of water
  • 3 tablespoons kosher salt
  • optional – allspice, black peppercorns, crushed garlic, fresh herbs

Pork chops:

  • 4 bone in pork chops
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper

30 minutes to 4 hours before you intend to cook the chops brine the chops:

  1. Bring one cup of the water to a boil in a small saucepan, add the salt (and optional additional flavorings), and stir until it dissolves. Add the two cups of cool water to the hot water. Cool to room temperature.
  2. Put the chops into a large bowl and pour the brine over them. The brine should cover the chops. If you need additional brine the ratio is one cup of water to one tablespoon of kosher salt.
  3. Cover the bowl and put in the fridge.
  4. 30 minutes before you intend to cook them, take the bowl out of the fridge, pour off the brine, dry the chops and coat them with olive oil. Let them sit on the counter to warm to room temperature.
  5. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F. Place an ovenproof skillet, (large enough to hold the chops in one layer) into the oven to heat.
  6. Remove the skillet from the oven, be careful to use mitts or protection for you hands. Turn on the oven fan or open a window (things are about to turn smoky).
  7. Lay the pork chops in the hot skillet on medium high; they should immediately start to sizzle. You can use tongs to hold them on their sides and sear the outer fat.
  8. Let them sear for about 3 minutes until the underside is golden.
  9. Flip the chops and transfer the hot skillet to the preheated oven.
  10. Roast until cooked through. Start checking at 6 minutes.
  11. Rest the chops for at least 10 minutes.

I smeared the chops with some of my Meyer Lemon and Garlic Confit after flipping them, and before putting into the oven. I know Meyer lemons are more common in California and Texas. Don’t let that stop you from making the confit. Simply subsitute two regular lemons and one orange. Try to get organic ones since you will be using the rind.

Pork Chops

Oven finished pork chops

I count this dinner a big success! I served it with sautéed broccoli rabe from the garden.

Pork Chops

Perfect Pork Chops with Broccoli Rabe

January in the Kitchen – Roast Spicy Tofu and Winter Squash
by

January in the Kitchen – Roast Spicy Tofu and Winter Squash

Ok, it’s time to put some of those New Year’s resolutions in place. Maybe like eating more fruits and vegetables or having one meat free meal a week? Is that one of your 2015 resolutions, it is one of mine. This recipe for Spicy Tofu with Delicata Squash fits in several resolution categories and is delicious as well.

I originally saw this recipe a year ago in the New York Times. I made it several times last January and then forgot about it. It is a winter dish, perfect for cold and rainy nights. Delicata squash cooks quickly and doesn’t need peeling, you could also use Acorn or another tender winter squash. The season for delicata is shorter than many other winter varieties as it doesn’t keep as well. Take advantage of it while it’s around.

My men folk are not crazy about tofu, so this is one of those dishes I make when I have an evening to myself. I think anyone who likes tofu and has vegetarian family or friends will find it a hit. Serve it with a spinach salad lightly dressed with lemon and olive oil, or with rice (brown would be nice) for a complete meal.

I’ve adapted the recipe,  if you want to see the original it is on my Pinterest Page, or you can link to the original New York Times recipe by Melissa Clark here.

Spicy Tofu with Delicata Squash

Spicy Tofu with Delicata Squash

Spicy Tofu with Winter Squash

  • 1 (14-ounce) package extra-firm tofu, drained
  • 2 pounds dumpling, delicata or acorn squash, halved and seeded.
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce, plus more to taste
  • ½ teaspoon Calabrian hot pepper paste or hot sauce
  • ¼ cup peanut oil
  • 1 tablespoon maple syrup, grade B preferred
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
  • 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro or parsley leaves

IMG_2340

PREPARATION

  1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.
  2. Drain tofu and slice into four pieces, then slice each piece into 1/2-inch-thick slabs (divide the block horizontally through the middle). Arrange the tofu on a large baking sheet or plate lined with several layers of paper towels. Place another layer of paper towels on top and weigh down tofu with another baking sheet or plate topped with a heavy cookbook or cans. Let stand for 20 minutes. Check it and see if you need to replace the paper towels and press for another 10 minutes. Pat tofu dry.
  3. While tofu drains, cut squash into 1/2-inch-thick half-moons or slices.
  4. In a small bowl, whisk together soy sauce, hot sauce, peanut oil, sesame oil, and maple syrup.
  5. Spread squash out in a single layer on a large aluminum lined baking sheet and brush with the sauce.
  6. Roast until bottoms are golden brown, about 20 minutes. Flip the squash and brush with sauce.
  7. Roast the squash for an additional 10-15 minutes until soft yet brown. Remove it to a warm bowl.
  8. Turn on your broiler.
  9. Brush the tofu with the remaining sauce and add the tofu to the same pan.
  10. Put the pan back in the oven and broil the tofu until uniformly golden bown, about 2-3 minutes.
  11. Turn the tofu, brush with sauce again, and return it to the oven. Cook until crispy and golden, about 2 minutes more.
  12. Toss hot tofu with squash, and cilantro (or parsley), adding more soy sauce if you like.
Tofu with Delicata Squash

Tofu with roast winter squash

January in the Kitchen – Spagetti Squash with Mushrooms and Pesto Sauce
by

January in the Kitchen – Spagetti Squash with Mushrooms and Pesto Sauce

Spaghetti Squash

Spagetti squash with mushrooms and pesto

Spagetti squash with mushrooms and pesto

At the time the British food writer Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book was published (1978), Spaghetti Squash was considered a newcomer on the vegetable scene. She found it an embarrassing name and preferred noodle squash or squash novella. It now seems to be taking the U.S. by storm, particularly in Paleo or low carbohydrate circles. It’s called spaghetti squash because the flesh, when cooked, can be scraped out of the skin and resembles strands of spaghetti.

I think the name is somewhat unfortunate as well; it is a type of delicious winter squash and deserves to be treated with more respect. The name suggests that you can substitute it for pasta and the www abounds with lovely pictures of using it in lasagna or with a red sauce. I’ve tried it and don’t think the flavor mixes well with tomato sauce, just my opinion. It looks good with the runny cheese (as you can see below) but that’s where it ends. We didn’t like it that much. Any kind of cream sauce, or sautéed mushrooms or chicken is a different story.

Baked Spagetti Squash with Mozzarella and Tomato Sauce

Baked Spagetti Squash with Mozzarella and Tomato Sauce

Ms. Grigson suggests poking a hole in the stem end and boiling. I prefer to cut it in half, remove the seeds, and bake it (flesh side down) at 400 degrees F for 30-40 minutes. The time will depend on the size. The squash should retain some crunch but be easy to separate from the shell with a fork. If you intend to stir fry it, let it drain on paper towels in a colander for a few minutes. Otherwise it can be watery.

This is what I consider a ‘non-recipe’, just a loose set of directions rather than a strict ‘how-to’.

Spagetti squash with mushrooms and pesto

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 pound of mixed mushrooms, wiped with a paper towel and sliced
  • 3 tablespoons of butter
  • 2 shallots, diced finely
  • 1/4 cup of pinenuts, briefly browned in a dry skillet
  • 4 tablespoons of pesto sauce
  • Optional, a couple of tablespoons of heavy cream
  • Few cubes of fresh mozzarella
  • Freshly grated Parmesan
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  1. Prepare the squash as above, baking at 400 degrees, cut side down.
  2. When slightly cooled, shred the strands with a fork into a collander lined with a dish towel or paper towels. Leave to drain while you prepare the mushrooms.
  3. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium high heat.
  4. Add the mushrooms and saute the liquid is gone and they begin to brown.
  5. Add the shallots and continue to saute for another 5 minutes until softened.
  6. Add the cream, pesto and squash to the skillet. Turn off the heat, add the mozzarella, and warm all briefly before turning out onto warmed plates.
  7. Top the the pinenuts and additional grated parmesan.
Squash with mushrooms

Spagetti Squash with Pinenuts and Pesto and Mushrooms

I’m going to take this to share with Angie and the gang at Fiesta Friday, sponsored by the Novice Gardener. Please come join the party and sample the delicious food.

Fiesta Friday

Fiesta Friday